Portugal Journey with Viking River Cruises

My journey on Viking River Cruises’ “Portugal’s River of Gold” showcased the beauty of the Douro River Valley and the rich culture of Portugal and Spain. I traveled on the Viking Torgil, a ship designed for the Douro River. The Torgil accommodates 106 guests and 33 crew members. The ship features modern engineering, comfortable accommodations, and Scandinavian-style interiors. My 185 sq. ft. veranda suite offered sweeping river views.

The trip included a cultural enrichment program with guest speakers, regional menus by master chefs, and engaging entertainment. I attended classes on Portuguese language, wine, and how to make pastel de nata, the famous custard tarts.

This cruise was an immersive journey into the history, culture, and natural beauty of Portugal and Spain. Viking’s excursions revealed Lisbon’s maritime history, Coimbra’s medieval university, and the Douro Valley’s wine making traditions. Each day brought new discoveries, from Porto’s streets to Pinhão’s vineyards and Salamanca’s historic sites. The Douro River Valley offered stunning landscapes and centuries-old wine production. The Viking Torgil’s design allowed me to appreciate the river’s beauty up close, making it the ideal vessel for this journey.

Day 1: Arrival in Lisbon

My adventure began in Lisbon, a city known for its vibrant culture and historic charm. The bustling Alfama district, with its narrow streets and soulful Fado music, set the tone for my journey. The Belem district, famous for the Belem Tower and Jeronimos Monastery, offered a glimpse into Portugal’s rich history.

Day 2: Lisbon Monuments and Day Trips to Sintra and Cascais

I began my day in Lisbon with a panoramic drive, stopping at the Monument to the Discoveries, Belem Tower, and the Jeronimos Monastery, a UNESCO site. We then paused at Eduardo VII Park for photos and views over the Tagus River and St. George Castle. With some free time afterward, I took a day trip to Sintra and Cascais. Sintra, with its romantic palaces and lush gardens, felt like a fairy tale. The colorful Pena Palace, perched on a hill, offered panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. In Sintra, I had my first pastel de nata, a treat that originated in Lisbon. Created by monks to prevent food waste, pastéis de nata are made with egg yolk-based custard and are sold all over Portugal.

Cascais, a coastal town, was a perfect contrast with its beautiful beaches and relaxed atmosphere. I strolled along the marina, visited Boca do Inferno, and enjoyed a traditional Portuguese meal of grilled octopus with garlic, olive oil, and broccoli at a local restaurant.

Day 3: Coimbra and Porto

On my way to Porto, I explored Coimbra, one of Portugal’s oldest cities and home to a medieval-era university. Coimbra holds a special place in Portuguese hearts, as it was the birthplace of six kings. I visited the Santa Clara-a-Velha convent and ascended the hill to the university, where 700 years of learning are preserved. The library, with its 300,000 books, and the baroque organ in the chapel were highlights. After a lunch accompanied by fado music, I continued my drive to Porto.

Day 4: Régua and Pinhão

In Régua, overlooking the Douro River, I explored the heart of Portugal’s wine-making region. At Casa do Douro, I admired beautiful stained glass windows and learned about the region’s rich port wine history. The surrounding Serra do Marão mountains provided a stunning backdrop.

Later in Pinhão, the epicenter of port wine production, I visited several quintas, where I learned about the wine-making process and sampled local wines amidst serene vineyards. A visit to the Mateus Palace, famous for its baroque architecture and wine labels, was another highlight. The grand stairway and formal gardens were impressive. The day ended with a wine tasting at a local quinta, deepening my appreciation for port wine.

Day 5: Barca d’Alva and Castelo Rodrigo

Barca d’Alva, the last Portuguese town on the Douro River, sits just a short distance from the Spanish border. The village is surrounded by cherry, almond, and olive groves, and its terraced vineyards offer stunning views. The simple cafés and scenic riverbanks add to its quiet charm.

I ventured into the breathtaking countryside to visit hilltop Castelo Rodrigo, a tiny medieval fortress town. This National Monument, recognized since 1922, is named for its castle. The town’s maze of cobblestone streets and 16th-century houses, along with the distinct Portuguese Manueline-style windows, took me back in time. I explored Sinagoga Street, a poignant reminder of the Jewish community that once sought refuge here from the Spanish Inquisition, and visited the local church before returning to the ship.

Day 6: Salamanca, Spain

Crossing into Spain, I explored Salamanca, a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its beautifully preserved buildings. Founded by a Celtic tribe before the arrival of the Roman Empire, Salamanca is home to one of Europe’s oldest universities, established in 1134. The main square, often bustling with students, is often called the most beautiful in Spain. My tour included visits to the University of Salamanca, the House of Shells, and the New Cathedral.

In my free time, I fully embraced the local flavors of Spain. I indulged in traditional tapas, savoring the variety of small, flavorful dishes. Churros dipped in rich chocolate provided the perfect afternoon treat. For lunch, I enjoyed a hearty plate of paella, accompanied by a refreshing glass of sangria. Exploring the city through its food and drink added a delicious layer to my experience in Salamanca.

Day 7: Pinhão and Régua

Pinhão, nestled among the terraced hillsides of the Douro River Valley, offers a quiet atmosphere despite its significance in the port wine industry. The village’s scenic river promenade made for a perfect leisurely stroll.

Our first stop was Favaios, known for traditional bread-making. I visited one of the last bakeries in the Douro Valley still using wood and old grapevines to heat the oven. Tasting the freshly baked bread was a highlight, and the local museum of wine and bread offered insight into the region’s deep-rooted traditions.

We then continued to Sandeman’s winery, a renowned name in port wine. The journey along winding roads provided stunning views of the Douro Valley. The winery tour was fascinating, offering a behind-the-scenes look at the winemaking process, with breathtaking vistas that made the visit truly memorable.

Day 8: Lamego

In Lamego, I visited the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Remedies, an 18th-century baroque chapel perched on a hilltop. The chapel is a popular pilgrimage site, and traditionally, devout pilgrims have crawled up the 686 steps on their knees as an act of penance. This ritual is similar to what pilgrims do at Fátima, where they crawl from the Basilica of the Most Holy Trinity to the Chapel of Apparitions on their knees, circling the chapel while praying the rosary.

Inspired by this tradition—and perhaps feeling the need to balance out the effects of two desserts and several glasses of wine each day at the vineyards—I decided it was time to pay my own penance. Instead of crawling, I took on the challenge of the entire staircase, climbing up and down three times for a total of 2,000 steps. The views from the top were spectacular, making every step worth it. Afterward, I explored Lamego’s Gothic cathedral and browsed the local shops for handcrafted products.

Day 9: Porto

Porto is a city rich in history and culture, shaped by the Douro River and the port wine trade. The city’s prosperity was tied to the barcos rabelos, the single-masted boats that once transported wine from the Douro Valley to Porto. Though no longer in use, these boats still grace the river’s edge, adding to Porto’s charm.

I spent the day exploring Porto on foot, starting with a walk across the iconic Luís I Bridge, a double-decked metal arch spanning the Douro River. I then visited Porto Cathedral, a 12th-century Romanesque landmark with stunning historic stonework and a serene interior.

Afterward, I made a brief stop at São Bento train station, known for its blue and white tile panels depicting scenes from Portugal’s history. The station was less impressive than anticipated, but still a notable part of the city’s architectural heritage. I then wandered down Rua das Flores, Porto’s most famous street, enjoying some free time to explore. The day ended with a leisurely stroll along Ribeira’s riverfront, soaking in the views of the Douro River and Porto’s unique character.

A Personal Touch: An Expat’s Journey

Julie Hosch, from St. Paul, describes entering the “third phase” of her life when she decided to leave behind a 26-year career. After a transformative cruise on the Danube, she realized she didn’t want to return to her job. “One Friday night, with a glass of wine in hand, I made up my mind. By Monday, I parked in the short-term visitor spot, walked into HR, handed in my badge, and quit. The relief was immediate.”

Inspired by International Living magazine, Julie was drawn to the idea of retiring in Portugal. Although she had never been there, the European lifestyle appealed to her. She joined a Facebook group for Americans in Portugal and began the complex process of moving abroad.

Adjusting to life in Lisbon wasn’t easy. “The city’s reserved atmosphere was a stark contrast to the Minnesota friendliness I was used to. I spent sleepless nights questioning my decision.” But over time, Julie settled into her new life, moving from the busy city center to the quieter area of Belém. “Daily walks by the river, past the Belem Tower and Jeronimos Monastery, became a cherished routine.”

Making friends took effort, but through local meetups, Julie built a community of both locals and expats. Despite the challenges, including the language barrier, “I now feel at home.” Over a year later, Julie reflects on her journey with pride, “embracing the freedom and beauty of my new life in Portugal.”

Conclusion

The “Portugal’s River of Gold” cruise offered a remarkable blend of historical exploration, cultural immersion, and personal discovery. From the bustling streets of Lisbon to the tranquil vineyards of the Douro Valley and the historic allure of Salamanca, the journey was filled with unforgettable moments. This was likely my favorite trip in years. The places I visited, the connections I made, and the stories I heard made this experience truly special. This journey encapsulated the essence of travel—exploration, learning, and, above all, living fully.