Paella to Picasso: A Journey Through Valencia and Madrid 

Spain has long been a country I’ve wanted to explore more deeply, so I set my sights on two key cities: Valencia and Madrid. From the moment I arrived I was on the move from morning until night, determined to experience everything Valencia and Madrid had to offer. I explored historic sites, soaked in the local culture, and sampled more tapas and paella than I’d like to admit. Brace yourself; I’ve got a lot to share from this whirlwind visit filled with history, art, and the flavors that make Spain unforgettable.

Valencia
Valencia is located on Spain’s eastern coast, bordered by the Mediterranean Sea, and is the country’s third-largest city. Known for its historic Old Town and the famous City of Arts and Sciences, Valencia appeals to travelers seeking both history and a touch of the avant-garde. It’s also the birthplace of paella, a culinary cornerstone of Spain. Mark your calendars and start planning a visit as Valencia will host the Gay Games from June 27th to July 5th in 2026.

Day 1: A Walk Through Valencia’s Old Town
In Valencia, I headed straight to my hotel, Hotel Marques House, in the heart of Old Town. My guide, Sonia, led me first to Valencia Cathedral, a grand structure believed to hold the chalice of the Holy Grail. Its stone walls and Renaissance frescoes make each corner feel like a piece of living history. From there, we walked over to Saint Nicholas Church, known as the “Sistine Chapel of Valencia.” Every inch of its Baroque interior is filled with intricate frescoes.

To end a day of exploring Valencia’s Old Town, I made my way to Mercado de Colón to enjoy a refreshing horchata, a traditional Valencian drink made from tiger nuts. Served chilled and typically enjoyed with fartons — light, powdered pastries perfect for dipping — horchata offers an earthy, slightly sweet flavor that locals love as an afternoon treat.

Day 2: Biking Valencia and the City of Arts and Sciences
On my second day in Valencia, I switched gears and explored the city by bike. Valencia is flat and bike-friendly, making it one of the best ways to take in the sights. My route started with the Turia Gardens, a sprawling green space that was once a riverbed. Decades ago, the Turia River was diverted after a massive flood, and in its place, the city created this incredible park. It stretches for miles, winding through different areas that feature sports fields, playgrounds, sculptures, and shaded paths.

After a lunch of traditional Spanish tapas, I headed to the City of Arts and Sciences, an architectural marvel that feels almost futuristic against the historic backdrop of Valencia. Designed by Santiago Calatrava, the complex is made up of sleek, white structures that curve and angle in ways that catch the light just right.

First up was the Science Museum Hall, a space dedicated to interactive science exhibits. The museum is hands-on, inviting visitors to engage with interactive displays. Next, I moved to the Hemisfèric, a planetarium and IMAX cinema housed in a building that resembles a giant eye. Inside I finished my tour at the Palau de les Arts Reina Sofía, Valencia’s opera house. This building is an impressive marvel, with several concert halls and theaters, each designed to enhance sound and visual experience.

Day 3: Albufera Rice Fields and Paella Cooking Class
For my last day in Valencia, I took a quick trip to Albufera, a peaceful nature reserve just south of the city. Known for its rice fields, Albufera has been supplying Valencia with the key ingredient for its most iconic dish, paella. Surrounded by open skies and quiet waters, it was a fitting start before heading back to the city.

Visiting Albufera was the perfect lead-in to a paella cooking class back in the city, where I’d be using its famous rice. At Sea & Saffron, I joined a hands-on class to prepare Valencia’s signature dish, crafted with simple yet essential ingredients: chicken, rabbit, runner beans, butter beans, fresh tomatoes, smoked paprika, saffron, and short-grain rice from Albufera’s fields.

At Sea & Saffron, we started by browning the chicken and rabbit, adding golden runner beans and heating the paprika and saffron to release their aroma. Fresh tomatoes went in next to create a rich base. Once the stock was added, we let it all simmer, stirred in the butter beans, and finally spread the Albufera rice evenly across the pan.

The final trick was carefully controlling the heat so the rice absorbed the broth and formed a crisp layer on the bottom, called “socarrat.” After a brief rest, the paella was ready to enjoy!

Madrid
After a high-speed ride on the AVE bullet train, I arrived in Madrid—a capital city pulsing with life through busy streets, historic landmarks, and neighborhoods full of character. Home to three million people, Madrid mixes tradition with contemporary flair. From the grandeur of the Royal Palace to the art-filled halls of the Prado Museum and Reina Sofía, the city holds some of Spain’s finest cultural treasures. I stayed at Room Mate Oscar in Chueca, a lively neighborhood known as the city’s gay district. Centered around Plaza de Chueca, the area is packed with tapas bars, boutique shops, and a vibrant spirit that carries well into the night.

Day 4: Tapas Crawl
After arriving in Madrid, I dropped my bags, picked up a Metro card and went straight to a tapas crawl with Foodlover Tours. A highlight for me was Jamón Ibérico, a prized cured ham made from acorn-fed Iberian pigs with a rich, nutty flavor. I also enjoyed patatas bravas—crispy potatoes topped with spicy aioli—and gambas al ajillo, garlic shrimp cooked in olive oil. Paired with local wines, these tapas capture the essence of dining in Madrid.

Day 5: City Highlights Tour
I started the day bright and early, exploring Madrid with a Hop-On Hop-Off tour to see some of the city’s iconic sites. The first stop was Plaza Mayor, Madrid’s grand central square, surrounded by historic architecture and bustling cafés. Next was the Royal Palace, Spain’s largest royal residence, with over 3,000 rooms reflecting centuries of history. From there, I visited Almudena Cathedral, which combines Gothic and modern styles in a spacious interior. Continuing down Gran Vía, Madrid’s main avenue, I took in the lively stretch of theaters, shops, and classic buildings. In the evening, I checked out the Royal Collections Gallery, a new museum filled with treasures from Spain’s royal heritage, offering a glimpse into the lives and tastes of Spanish monarchs.

Day 6: Art, Flamenco, and Famous Eats
To dive into Madrid’s art scene, I joined a tour of the top museums, beginning at the Prado Museum, home to works by Goya, Velázquez, and Titian—a deep exploration of Spanish and European art. Next, we visited the Reina Sofía to see Picasso’s “Guernica,” a powerful piece capturing the anguish of war. In the evening, I went to Torres Bermejas for a flamenco show, an intense display of Madrid’s musical culture. Afterward, I stopped to reflect on my day at San Ginés for churros and hot chocolate. Established in 1894, San Ginés is open 24 hours a day—a must-visit for this classic Madrid treat.

To cap off my visit to Spain, I treated myself to dinner at Sobrino de Botín, officially recognized as the oldest restaurant in the world. Founded in 1725, it’s known for traditional Castilian dishes like roast suckling pig. It was the perfect end to a few packed days in Madrid, where each experience added a layer to the city’s story.

Reflecting on my time in Spain, I came away with a real appreciation for both Valencia and Madrid. Valencia’s history and flavors, Madrid’s art and energy—each city offered a unique look into Spain’s culture. The experiences and people I encountered left an impression beyond just sights or meals. Spain has a way of staying with you, and I’m already looking forward to my next visit.