Eat The Menu: St. Pierre Comes Marching In

As they said in royal France, “The king is dead. Long live the [new] king!” Translate that to our city’s North Loop restaurant scene and you get “Snack Bar is closed, but, hurrah, St. Pierre Seafood & Steaks has opened.”

It came off a bit easier than a 10-day turn-around in March sounds because the cozy front of the house remains untouched — as well it should with its deep, curvy, assignation-worthy booths already in place, facing a row of prime-seating bar stools from which to spy the action in the kitchen. And the proprietors remain in place, too: Exec chef Isaac Becker manning the menu and his partner in life and business, Nancy St. Pierre, serving as hospitality doyenne.

There she is — teamed with Becker as the dining scene’s power couple of 112 Eatery and Bar La Grassa and now heralded in her own right — garbed, tonight, in jeans and a cozy sweater, (it’s snowing outside) leading guests to their seats. And, thanks to the new concept and its delivery, those seats — a former afterthought in the Loop’s dining scene — now are in demand (as is the valet, for these days foodies are driving in from remote suburbs for the experience).

To toast the turn-around, I ordered my standby cocktail, an Old Fashioned, for the usual taste test (based on Knob Creek here, and fine). I also sneaked a sip of my companion’s Pear Sonata — an easy-to-like combo of brandy sweetened a bit with Benedictine. What I should have done (and you’d be wise to) is proceed farther down the drinks list to the Gin Parade section, wherein one may create a personal pairing from the lengthy list of gins with house-made tonics and juices. Beer lovers, not to worry: five locals on tap. Wines BTG $10-20, too.

The menu’s Starter list reads, actually, like a trio of list-lets: seafood’s carpaccio, tartare and oysters; salad-y, veggie first courses; plus, side dishes to accent the mains ($11-23). I chose the foie gras toast with escargot because, well, why not? Talk about a gilded lily! Out came a crusty, inch-thick slice of toasted rustic bread spread lightly with the rich foie mousse, upon which rested a quartet of fat, oh-so-succulent, garlic-forward snails. Who else is serving snails these days? Not many. Off to a good start.

Next, from the pasta-and-more section of starters, we pounced on an order of pierogi, exceedingly plump with a savory puree of walnuts boldly scented with dill. Next time, from the same globe-trotting list: Germanic schupfnudeln in gorgonzola cream, cream-puffy gougères or sour silk handkerchiefs, whatever they may be. Our server recommended the crab-and-seabean salad, so that’s probably worth a thought as well. Or … oh, stop! We’ve yet to decide on a main course.

The list of steaks (prime Niman Ranch beef) segues from a 7-oz. hanger ($30) to a 6-oz. filet ($75). Tempting. But we were here for the seafood ($19-38). That section leads off with garlic-fried octopus, coconut curry mussels, grilled shrimp with black mayo and scallops with black rice. Read on and you’ll find roasted halibut in zarzuela, salmon with lemon pesto, barramundi in crazy water and more, down to the lobster cutlet with hearts of palm for those not of the faint-of-price-tag persuasion ($38).

Our order of halibut brought us a fillet that delivered on its promise: super-fresh, firm, meaty and mild in flavor. We ate it naked, but one can also procure sides such as fried eggplant with honey (if you care to spend $18 on veggies), spicy greens, roasted broccolini or mashed potatoes ($12 up).

Instead, this time we, for once, saved room for dessert ($15). Well-restrained diners may choose from two tempting sorbets. Those of our persuasion will succumb to the thought of ending the meal with a doughnut. It’s of the fluffy, raised variety, here, gently crisped with sugar spangling its exterior, leading to a hidden cream brulee filling. Split the guilt by sharing. Or dare the carrot or coconut cake — why not? (Well, you know why, but don’t listen.)

Hurrah, Mme. St. Pierre, for a lovely evening at a sweet new dining option named in your honor.

Long live the queen!

St. Pierre Steak and Seafood
800 Washington Ave. N., Minneapolis
(612) 383-2848
stpierrerestaurant.com
Closed Sun/Mon