Eat The Menu: Dreamy Dinner

You remember that business slogan that counsels, “Under-promise; over-deliver?” The folks at Reverie, a casual cafe in South Minneapolis, probably have that pep-talk bit of wisdom engraved on their paychecks, or perhaps tattooed on their forearms.

Guess what, skeptics? It works.

The menu online looked mildly enticing, so I strong-armed an accomplice to give the place a try. We were met, in this sedate neighborhood setting, by a façade of Warhol-like pop art femmes screaming in (I assume) delight. Oh-kay…

Walking in, the anonymous room was pretty empty. Turns out, tonight’s mob of diners had made themselves at home in the backyard patio, under a leafy canopy of mature trees at tables backed by a fence dressed with multiple pots of ferns. No Muzak, just the low hum of chatter as waitresses delivered in courses the food already bought and paid for at the host stand. The statement that this is a no-tipping facility makes it even easier. Simply choose your table, and the food starts coming. In huge, bounteous portions.

As I sipped my Great Lakes Porter, out came a platter of deep-fried artichoke hearts (starters $10-14) cloaked in a sheer, slight batter that added welcome crunch but didn’t overpower the prime ingredient, still juicy and ready to dip in the creamy mustard-seed remoulade at its side. Off to a good start.

We paired it with an order of smoked potato salad — really smoky, turns out, which tends to overwhelm the spuds’ creamy dill dressing. You can never have too much potato in your diet, right? So we summoned a plate of mealy, hand-cut chunky wedges as well, to dress with a duo of dips: a suave aioli and straight-up ketchup.

Next, a pair of tacos ($15) bulging — overflowing! — with buxom cauliflower florets, gently crisped and bathed in chipotle sour cream, then garnished with pink pickled onion strands along with wisps of arugula and cilantro: an inventive preparation and nearly a meal in itself.

Never fear: We don’t wilt that easily. On to an order, in the Bowls section of the menu, of mac & cheese, $18. The curly noodles swam in a luxuriously rich and deeply tasty sauce starring smoked Gouda, abetted by crumbles of shiitake bacon, contributing crunch and husky flavor notes to the concoction. Warning: The dish could serve four famished sumo wrestlers, so count on doggie bags.

That same caution applies to the rice & bean bowl ($16.50), consisting of that standard pairing ably assisted here by perky lime leaf sour cream, fried pickled onions, cilantro and (surprise!) a generous heap of smoked brussels sprouts. Nice, but despite those thoughtful add-ons, still a plate that proved blander than was its due.

The menu continues with a long list of handhelds, from inventively garnished lemongrass tofu tacos to a Cuban sandwich starring jackfruit to a BLT wherein tempeh bacon reigns; plus Korean BBQ mock duck tacos and a Nashville hot number — and that’s just a few teasers ($15-18.50).

As you’ve possibly guessed by now, the kitchen is a 100% plant-based one. Remember that ages-ago TV commercial that wailed, “Where’s the beef?” Turns out, who cares? Especially where the short-but-sweet dessert list is concerned. We summoned the beignets ($9) — better than those deep-fried-doughnut pastries served in New Orleans because this trio of powdered sugar-coated sweets comes with a surprise filling of molten chocolate.

Not quite ready to head out into the balmy night, we ordered a pair of affogatos for the road: vanilla soft-serve immersed in a cup of espresso. Heaven. And fodder for many a pleasant reverie.

Reverie
1517 E 35th St.
Minneapolis
(612) 987-7080
reveriempls.com