Deep In The Heart

Texas occupies an XXL-sized chunk of the USA, and I’m deep in the heart of it. But here in Fredericksburg, deep in the heart of the heart, the greeting is “Wilkommen” rather than “Howdy.”

The sweet town of 11,000 was settled in 1846 by German immigrants, seeking the milk and honey promised them in the Promised Land. Weeks into their trek from the seacoast, they looked around at the abundant forests and deep, rich soil here and decided to slog no further: As Promised Lands go, this looked pretty promising.

They staked out a Main Street wide enough to maneuver their oxcarts and built tiny, one-room Sunday houses where these pious German farmers could conduct their Saturday trading, enjoy a beer that night, then attend church before heading home. Many of those limestone Sunday houses remain today, serving as boutiques, B&Bs and cafes. You’ll spot many a one on a narrated trolley tour leaving from the Tourist Office.

On it, driver Dave points out the venerable Verein Kirche on Market Square, built in octagon form so its windows might spot the approach of hostile Comanches from any direction. Dave then directs us to a memorial where, later, a peace treaty pipe was smoked by German and Native leaders.

Down the street at the Pioneer Museum, docent Evelyn continues the story. As a kid, she spoke no English until enrolled at the schoolhouse where she now stands. We wander to the working windmill that drew water for the one-stop barbershop-cum-bathhouse, then to the smokehouse, the Sunday house and more. As we step over the threshold of each structure, a voice narrates tales from back in the day.

Turning to a more recent era in American history, the National Museum of the Pacific War brings World War II home to proud Texans and visitors alike. But what’s it doing here, deep in the heart of Hill Country, not the deep blue sea? Turns out that Admiral Chester Nimitz, Commander in Chief, Pacific Ocean Areas, who commanded all Allied units in the area, came from this very town. And Fredericksburg is justly proud.

Today, the fascinating museum has undergone a dramatic revision of its presentations in order to focus on the individual people involved and their points of view — such as the true story of a little girl saved from Japanese invaders via a submarine escape. (And we’re sitting right there, in that “submarine,” with water misting our faces as the sub jiggles us through the girl’s journey.) P.S.: You can spot actual submarines on display, too — in fact, the very two-man Japanese version that attacked Pearl Harbor.

As a chaser, how about attacking Main Street and its block upon block of alluring indie shops? The Hat Bar can supply you with the Ten Gallon of your choice; choose whatever add-on ribbons, feathers and whatnot you may fancy. Leather and Style called my name with its enticing cache of belts, bags and billfolds. Boots proffers just what it promises, from plain-vanilla to power striders. (I had my eye on hot pink ankle boots on the Reduced Price rack for $200.)

My Sister’s Corner catered to my inner cowgirl with quilted jackets, heavy silver-and-turquoise jewelry and femme-fatale earrings, Texas bad-ass style. The local Mercantile proffers toys galore (princess tutus to Godzilla costumes), while Rustlin’ Rob’s offers Texas gourmet foods to sample and savor, from Bourbon-smoked pecans to chili mix. There’s also a coffee house/bookstore nearby to revive mind and body.

Revitalized and credit card back in business, I head to a corner off of Main Street, which boasts a trio of upscale showrooms to outfit one’s home, too. Carol Hill Bolton’s urban warehouse displays unique antiques from her European expeditions, while Neighbours courts a modern vibe, and Room 5, the all-white look.

Your yard and your green thumb are the focus at Wildseed Farms, where proprietor John Thomas salutes his passion for Texas bluebonnets and bright poppies on his acres of blooms. October’s pumpkins of all shapes and colors rule his spacious gift shop.

Two more out-of-town venues vie to capture your love for this neck of the state: The sweet little town of Luckenbach serves up nostalgia for two-steppin’ to fiddlers’ tunes along with plenty of cold beer at its dance hall and stages, whose occupants have included Wayne Jennings, Willie Nelson and many a once-or-future Hall of Famer in between.

While you’re on the road, head to Prochnow Vineyards for a tasting of fine Texas wines (5 samples $25), from a bright Picpoul blanc to an easy-to-love Sangiovese rosé and a bold, red Tannat. Those original German settlers savored their beer, but today over 70 wineries flourish in Hill Country.

And the food scene is just as rich and rewarding. At Vaudeville, on Main Street, accessories rule on the main floor. But foodies know to scoot downstairs for a chance at their smile-inducing soup of the day or a Mediterranean platter rich with feta, spreads, dips and those little, wizened black olives that belong in the world’s top food groups.

Dinner tonight is at Hill & Vine, where “every plate tells a Texas story,” declares its dedicated chef. After sharing onion rings big as truck tires, I called for the watermelon and green tomato salad, a-bling with goat cheese, spiced pecans, basil and mint. Then what? Bison Bolognese? Hill Country rib eye? Chile-citrus brined pork chop? Tempting, all. But the kitchen’s fried chicken sandwich proved one for the record books. Bravo to the all-Texan wine list, too.

Das Peach Haus looks like a shack in the forest, but don’t let that fool you. From a tiny peach stand, where founder Mark Weiser used to sell peaches as a kid, now stretches the flourishing food empire he and his family grew. Today, Fischer & Wieser speeds products to Whole Foods and beyond for national fans, including its signature best-seller, roasted raspberry chipotle sauce. Take a class at the attached cooking school, or let them serve you (as we did) from a menu leading off with spinach salad with Bourbon cranberry preserve dressing, pork loin with orange-cranberry sauce, then baked pear dressed in cinnamon pear preserves.

Step a few paces along the path to the brainchild of the youngest entrepreneur of the food family, Dietz Fischer, whose passion runs not to soft fruits, but hard likker. His distillery produces several singular spirits, the inspiration for an ultra-inventive cocktail list that delights imbibers at the tiny bar.

You can overnight in the sweet cottages at Hill Country Herb Garden, or simply stop by for lunch to dine tastefully but healthily on soups, sumptuous salads, quiche and such. But remember to save a corner of your appetite for dinner at Otto’s German Bistro, where German beers and wine accent a menu of Old World Meets Texas Modern. Go classic with a pretzel and beer cheese starter or sauerkraut balls (don’t knock ’em till you try ’em). Then steer toward time-honored entrees given a New World spin, such as my duck schnitzel with cheese spaetzle, red cabbage and Kirsch. Or the pierogi paired with caramelized onions. The chicken paprikash. The wurst plate. Well, speaking of wurst, er, worst: Time to get back on the plane. To plan your own immersion into Hill Country’s German heritage, log onto visitfredericksaburgtx.com