Deep In The Heart

Welcome to San Antonio, sizzling with a spicy blend of Mex and Tex, blending and showcasing the union of two cultures over 300 years of shared history—all seasoned by a bit of liberal blue amidst the red state’s mindset at the polls.

Plus, I swear, it’s the darned prettiest (and fastest-growing) enclave in what’s certifiably a darned pretty state. Much of the credit goes to the city’s iconic River Walk, a 15-mile stretch of heaven meandering below street level, bordered by lush greenery, spanned by romantic bridges, with a choral soundtrack provided by arias of birds.

It’s enticing for strolling any time of any day, but especially mesmerizing when seen from a boat ride such as GO Rio offers in its 35-minute narrated tours.  The two-mile downtown section of the walk is packed with bars, shops and cafes such as Boudros, where I sipped a prickly pear Margarita as I bit into a plump, yucca fried oyster sweetened with serrano-honey aioli as a prelude to a tasty plate of shrimp & grits.

As twilight deepened, I headed to nearby Cathedral Square for the free nightly sound and light show (9 and 9:30) highlighting the city’s vivid history against its stone façade—a story unfolding as cattle trudged the plains accompanied by a Scott Joplin rag.

Returning by morning light, within the somber cathedral I paid obeisance to the tombs of Davy Crockett and his peers, slain defending the Alamo. Then on to the Alamo itself—small and spare (free admission), where those Texans held out for 13 days against Mexico’s General Santa Anna (audio guides available). Cannonballs’ dents can still be seen from that momentous 1836 collision of the cultures. Guides point out the faint, recently-unearthed murals that gird its walls.

The Alamo is one of several such missions constructed a day’s ride in the saddle apart. I continued on to San Antonio Missions National Historical Park, anchored by Mission San Jose. The enclave, dating back to the 1700s, includes a Visitors Center, where a film explains its history. Park rangers offer free tours at 10 and 11 AM (“before it gets too hot”) of the walled-in fort, erected to offer protection to whites and natives alike against enemy raiders. We peeked into a grist mill, which ground wheat into flour for the 1,000 loaves consumed daily; we peered at the living quarters, and admired the petite church whose interior, clad in white, boasts a blue altar wall from which wide-eyed Spanish-looking saints observe.

Close to the Alamo stands the Spanish Governor’s Palace—if “palace” is the right word to name this intimate abode which began life in 1722 as a one-room house. Three rooms—high ceilings, thick white walls— were added in 1749, and today immerse visitors, via furnishings of the times, in the comfy lifestyle of this one-time VIP.

Leap a century forward to explore the ways of the wild, wild west in the Briscoe Museum. Its intriguing collection of spurs—reflecting the personas of their owners, like your necktie might—indicated where these riders hailed from; their saddles, elegantly displayed, serve as works of art. There’s a splendid Blackfoot ceremonial war shirt, fringed and beaded. A covered wagon, a windmill, a vaquero’s sombrero and lasso, a Mexican general’s fancy uniform all bring the era to life, as do the hefty pistols and rifles of the times. There’s a special gallery devoted to Women of the West. And a great gift shop!

The Witte Museum (“San Antonio’s most visited”) unfolds Texans’ history, starting with dinosaur bones. Animals of the plains in scenic montages then give way to People of the Pecos—portraits who interactively speak their stories as visitors approach their visages—a German farmer, a Mexican cook. Interactive displays invite visitors to pack a burro for the trek (hey, don’t overload the poor critter: maybe leave the family china behind). Exhibits range from branding irons to a portable jail to themed pinball machines, where I get to try my luck at avoiding an Indian raid, rattlesnakes, lack of water and loco weed. You’ll also spy Davy Crickett’s fiddle and photos of the 1930s Chili queens. Plus—my favorite!—the ultra-glittery gowns of former Fiesta royalty.

The San Antonio Museum of Art dives deeper into former cultures, including fascinating finds from Egypt, Greece and Rome. Its European and Texan rooms continue the story, but if you’re rushed for time, speed straight to the Latin American Peoples Art, collected by Nelson Rockefeller, whose eye ranged from Day of the Dead altars to decorated ponchos, plus a photo-ready life-size concrete bear and bull—reason enough to get on at plane and head right here.

Hipsters, a heads-up: Even if most museums give you hives, you’ll bask in this one, called Hopscotch. Debuting in 2020, its 15 exhibits—er, rooms—are “immersive, interactive,” explains Experience Manager Gage, who escorted me through this wonderland, ranging from a color therapy room to an optical illusion room, from a “create your own kaleidoscope” room to a rainbow cave formed from 40,000 plastic bags, on to a room on which to blaze graffiti via lasers. Bonus: a bar at the entrance serves as THE local scene until 10 PM.

Hipsters (and everybody else) invariably head to The Pearl, a lively shopping/entertainment/dining complex which debuted in 2006 and keeps on growing. Latest addition: the indoor Pullman Market, offering gourmet necessities (wine to ice cream, cooking vessels to exotic spices). Roam the Pearl from bookstore to cantina, a grassy, fountain-splashing pocket park to a brewery, and many-many-many restaurants.

My fave of the entire food-fantastic trip to the city was Best Quality Daughter, housed in a Barbie-pink bungalow just outside the Pearl. Here, the Chinese-flavored menu ranges from don’t-miss mochi-cheddar hush puppies with Thai dipping sauce to throw-back entrees like creamy coconut tom yum noodles and local mushroom chow mein. I slurped the “Are You There, God? It’s Me, Margarita,” bumped up with lychee liqueur and rosewater.

More irresistible eats: Poblano’s chilaquiles, ramped up with scrambled eggs, cheese, and bacon (great downtown people-watching, too). The avo toast at Box Street Social, anchoring Hemisphere Park, launched to celebrate the 1968 World’s Fair and now home to scads of restaurants, a splash park and garden spaces. La Panaderia’s breakfast benedict saluting spicy fried chicken as well as such necessities as croissants filled with sweet strawberries and whipped cream. Prime people-watching here, too.

Same at Eddie’s Taco House—clearly a locals-only spot, where I was the only tourist, plagued by deciding which of the menu’s 44 varieties of tacos to mix and match. Dinner at Toro Kitchen transported me from Tex and Mex to Spain—a treat list of tapas and paellas, plus fancy Margaritas to savor indoors or, on this balmy evening, in the peaceful backyard patio.

To bite into the food and culture of this intriguing city, check out www.visitsanantonio.com

Events:
San Antonio is rated “the most inclusive city in Texas.”
River Walk Pride Parade occurs in June.
QFest film festival is held in October

Gay Bars:
Pegasus: Karaoke and drag
Sparks Club: No rez; outside food OK
Cobalt: No-frills, down-home
Bonhom Exchange: Over 30 years; voted best LGBTQ+ dance club in town